It’s been on circulation for quite some time now and everyone worth their salt knows that there’s currently rising popularity with having see-through uppers on their silhouettes, with the Nike React Element 87 being the epicentre of the hype cloud. Adidas too is riding the train, with Kim Kardashian having given a sneak peek at Yeezy’s new and upcoming collection. A new Yeezy 700 with redesigned upper can be seen, but the topic seems to gravitate more on the 350 V2s, which now come with a translucent stripe across the shoe akin to the Beluga V1 pattern.
This concept isn’t a new thing. Where previously it was a female dominated district, more and more designers are including or at least considering adding transparency towards menswear, specifically, sneakers. That being said, different manufacturers have been experimenting with clear uppers but never really bore much fruit. Puma remixed the Clyde with a transparent body sans the toe cup, eyestay, and heel counter with its recent collaboration with Shantell Martin. BAPE experimented too when the Bape Sta clear was released, amid to mixed reception. Reebok flatout deconstructed panels on its Instapump Fury, leaving holes on the medial and lateral sides of the shoe, making for a fairly unique albeit weird silhouette. Even Nike got in on it before this blew up with the release of the Commes Des Garçons SB a few months back.
It doesn’t only stop with shoes. RIMOWA also got in on the act with their recent collaboration with Off-White and forego the aluminium (freaking aluminium) for transparent polycarbonate, effectively challenging the whole principle of privacy when it comes to personal belongings. It’s a literal showpiece for flexing, and nothing else, because obviously the polycarbonate won’t stand to the abuse an aluminium bag can take, much less look better when it’s beaten up with scratches and dents.
The transition and mass adoption of the translucent to transparent types of footwear can be traced back to the Zoom Fly SP, featuring a multi-layered construction that presenting the functional parts of the shoe that contribute to its performance and design. FlyWire can be seen caging the midfoot portion where the laces will be, as well as the heel cushion, with the sock peeking out from the toebox. Consumers were quick to connect dots that brightly coloured or pattern heavy socks allowed for different variations to the silhouette, essentially revealing another layer to the shoe that was previously hidden.
As the Zoomflys were considered running shoes, not many took favour to it, as the foam would crease even on the first wear, but that all changed with the introduction of the React Element 87, featuring a slightly thinner, more sculpted midsole that reduced the problem, or at least the translucent upper distracts from that fact. Hypebeasts then adopted it, took all of it, and proceeded to jack up the prices in a bid to make a quick buck while they can, leaving everyone else to wonder as to why a GR pair costs thrice as much as retail.
It could be that we’re too focused on the niche and not looking at the bigger picture. GQ provided an interesting perspective on Abloh’s oxymoronic statement piece: “After Facebook and Cambridge Analytica made it clear that nothing was hidden to begin with, Abloh’s suitcase serves as a witty rejoinder, and the only possible response. Just put it all out there. It’s all known already.”
What this basically means then, is that see through shoes and accessories serve as an allegorical commentary that nothing is secretive anymore. Overanalysis of a simple feature never went so deep.
