The Truth Behind The “Unauthorized Authentic” Term

I stumbled on this term while scrolling through the #KLKIX hashtag on Instagram when I found a picture of a pair of AJ11 that was coupled with the caption “Unauthorized Authentic”. I was so intrigued by the term that I screen-cap the picture, and posted it up on a popular Facebook group to ask about the member’s opinions. Some people say that it is over produced / leftover sneakers, some say that it’s a term for rejected pairs, but majority just wrote it off as a new term for fakes. Since then, there has been a lot of talk about the term “UNAUTHORIZED AUTHENTIC”, and about what the true meaning of the term really is in the sneaker world.

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The Screen-Cap Picture That Started it All

Extremely curious and intrigued, I whipped my phone out and started texting, emailing and calling some people who are key players in the sneaker scene, to ask them about this whole “Unauthorized Authentic” term. Some of them are notable sneakerheads in the scene, some are sneaker store owners, and some of them have sneaker manufacturing ties in China.

After gathering the info, below is basically what the real meaning of what the term “Unauthorized Authentic” really is, and how it came about:-

Major shoe companies do not stick to a set of factories to produce their shoes. They assign a certain number (i.e. 50,000) per model for each factory to produce. The thing about all this factories is that they do not produce just 50,000 pairs. They will produce 20,000 to 30,000 extra pairs, some even 50,000 pairs. Reason being is that they need this extra pairs to replace the rejected pairs after they fail to pass quality inspection. What happens after the shoe company receives their 50,000 pairs of shoes is that they move production to another factory to produce the same pair of shoe.

But what gets left behind in the old factory is the 20,000-30,000 pairs of shoe that were rejected, or did not even get to see QC because the shoe company has already reached their quota. So that is how the term “UNAUTHORIZED AUTHENTIC” came about. All this extra pairs that are left over, are produced at the same factory, by the same workers, with the same material, just that they did not get licensed/authorized/quality checked by the shoe company OR rejected by the shoe company for not meeting their standards. The factory will then sell this left over shoes to sneaker resellers, sneaker dealers, and online stores. And that is how the term “Unauthorized Authentic” gets thrown around so often in our scene.

So after gathering all this info, and finally getting a true picture of what the term really means, I was still pretty dissatisfied because I wanted to see for myself what a pair of “Unauthorized Authentic” really is. After a few phone calls, I managed to get a hold of an “Unauthorized Authentic” pair of AJ11 Retro Low “Infrared”. Below is the comparison between a brand new pair of Authentic pair of size US9.5 AJ11 Retro Low “Infrared” which was bought at HUNDRED% and a used size US9 “Unauthorized Authentic” pair.

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APPEARANCE 

I took both pairs out of the box, and from my first initial impression, both looked pretty similar. The materials, the stitching and the shape look pretty similar. A few difference I could see is that the translucent sole on the unauthorized pair is slightly more yellow overall compared to the authentic one, which I would give it a pass since that it is a used pair.  Another thing I noticed is the height of the patent leather is slightly higher compared the authentic pair.

  • UNAUTHORIZED AUTHENTIC

 

The only fault that I could find on the appearance of the pair, which is a pretty obvious one, can be found on the speckles at the back heel of the shoe. The unauthorized pair has less speckles compared to the original one. Also another pretty obvious difference can be found on the mid tongue section where the Jumpman branding is. The unauthorized pair has a slightly thicker font compared to the authentic. Pictures below:-

  • LEFT: UNAUTHORIZED AUTHENTIC / RIGHT: AUTHENTIC

 

INNER DETAILS

As for the inside of the shoe, the size tag looks pretty similar, except for the Jumpman logo, which looks just a little bit off. Just a little. The Jumpman logo on the insole is also very similar. Another thing that is pretty different is the numbers that you usually find on the back of the insole. The ones from the unauthorized pair is totally different from the authentic one. The unauthorized pair had too many codes embossed on it and the colour of the sole is also different.

  • BOTTOM: UNAUTHORIZED AUTHENTIC / TOP: AUTHENTIC

 

CONCLUSION

All in all, I must admit that if I did not have the authentic with me to do the comparison, it would have been pretty difficult for me to tell the difference. As I mentioned earlier, the materials, stitching and shape of the unauthorized pair was almost identical. Even though the pair was worn, it had the same shoe smell as the brand new authentic pair. If it was a fake pair, I would say that these guys made a very good pair of fake, and on the other hand, I do not have concrete proof that this pair is an unauthorized authentic, or a rejected pair for that matter. The truth is, I do know for sure whether there is such a thing as “unauthorized authentic”, all I know is that if you’re comfortable with buying a pair like this, who am I to judge you. It is your money. And if you’re not comfortable buying something like this, then buy from authorized shops that you trust.

I am also very aware of the fact that a lot of online sneaker sellers are abusing the “Unauthorized Authentic” term to sell their fake shoes, and as I mentioned earlier from my conversations with some of the industry players, some sneaker stores are believe to be mixing these “unauthorized authentic” pairs with their originals. That is why I am not here to promote or condemn these “unauthorized authentic” pairs or anyone who owns them. All I’m here to do is to share the knowledge of what I have learn in hopes that anyone reading this will be more informed and more knowledgeable about what is happening in our scene, and I also hope that the knowledge gained from this post will help them when they want to buy a pair next time so that you can avoid disappointment of being cheated. With that said, here is one last comparison at both the pairs.

  • UNAUTHORIZED AUTHENTIC

Rudy Ramly’s Why

Malaysia is no short of power producers of electronic/house music. What with the presence of music makers like Afaro, Krayziesoundz and loads more. But if you haven’t heard of a guy named Rudy Ramly, well take note of this. His SoundCloud has been around for quite some time now, and his amassed countless plays with an extensive mix of tracks. And his latest release “Why” is definitely a standout. And for a first attempt in making a deep house track, the mix is pretty dope. “Why” is a no frills and trills kinda song. The production is enjoyable for all those electronic-esque lovers out there, but still easy on fresh ears. Most house songs tend to get annoying sometimes cause they overdo it with the production. But “Why” is chilled and easy. Which is exactly ‘why’ you should give it a listen. And then some more. Click play and just get in the zone.

RANTAi ART FESTIVAL 2015

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Rantai Art Festival is about to go down at the end of the month! The two day festival will be happening on the 28th and 29th of March and will be held at the Malaysia Tourism Centre (MATIC LANAI). A little history on Rantai, it started in 2006, as a platform for local artists to showcase their work to the public. Since then, Rantai Art Festival has grown into one of the most acclaimed art festival in the nation with the sole purpose of making the public understand and appreciate presented arts.

Now, for 2015, Rantai Art Festival opens up an opportunity for all applicants to have their chance of showcasing their artwork and many many more! Also featuring performances from upcoming local bands, you wouldn’t want to miss this! So give their Facebook and Website a visit for more information on how you could be a part of the happening.

The Borak-Borak Sessions: Fumi-San of Red Wing Shoes

The recent grand launching of Cover by Crossover Store at Sunway Pyramid that went down last Friday was attended by a few notable guests, namely local fashion designer Joe Chia, DJ Bunga and the guest of honour for the event, Mr. Takefumi, the principle of Red Wing Shoes Asia. We managed to get a hold of Mr. Takefumi, better known as Mr. Fumi-San, to get to know him better. Check out our interview with him below.

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Can you tell us a bit about your role in Red Wing Shoes?

I am the Business Development Manager for Asia. My role is to be in charge of the Sales and Marketing for Red Wing Shoes in Asia. The countries that I handle is China, Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong, and South East Asia. I have been doing this for 3 years now.

For someone in your position and with the experience that you have, what is your take on the leather boots trend in Malaysia compared to the rest of the world?

We have 4 major regions in the world. Northern America, Europe, Japan, and the last one is Asia. Each region has different tastes and different trends but a lot of the other countries tend to follow fashion trends from these 4 major regions. What I notice is that South East Asian countries tend to follow the American and Japanese trends. For Malaysia, in regards to fashion trends that relate to leather boots, you guys have a slightly more matured style and tend to follow the European and Japanese styles.

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Okay, let’s focus a bit on South East Asia. Compared to the rest of  SEA, how is Malaysia doing?

I think in regards to Red Wing Boots, it is a very new market here. Compared to your neighbours like Singapore, Malaysia is still pretty new, but it is catching on very fast. That being said, you guys are very much into the whole Japanese denim culture, which is something that goes hand in hand with leather boots so that is why things are picking up really fast here in Malaysia. Another thing I just wanna add is that, from my perspective, you guys know how to dress up pretty well. You guys know how to make a pair of Red Wing boots look really good.

Were leather shoes and boots something you were into since you were young or was it something you slowly gravitated to?

I bought my first leather boots back when I was in junior high school. After that, I bought so many other leather shoes. But the first time I laid my eyes on a pair of Red Wing boots was when I turned 18. I could not afford it at that time but after saving up for awhile, I finally bought my first pair. Many, many years later, I am now the proud owner of 50 odd pairs of Red Wing boots and also work for the company.

We’re pretty sure you’ve mastered the art of cleaning a pair of Red Wing boots!

Ah yes! I’ve had a lot of practice. Nobody really taught me how to do it, but it is just something that you will naturally learn if you’re into leather boots.

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In your own opinion, how would you describe the perfect Red Wing Shoes wearer?

Well, that is a very tough question but for me, he would definitely be wearing denim. It would be someone who loves denim.

Last question, we now know that you have 50 plus pairs of Red Wing shoes but among all the models available in the Red Wing Shoes catalogue, which is your favourite model and why?

That is the most difficult question for me because honestly, I love them all. But if I really have to choose one, it would be the “875”. The reason is that the “875” has very nice history and background coupled with a very iconic look and shape. My personal favourite feature about the pair is that it ages very nicely.

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The Beginning Series – Horský (Video)

Earlier this year we decided to feature this up and coming brand on our website along with their debut collection, The Beginning Series. If you haven’t seen it, go ahead and click on this! If you have, then well you know who we are talking about. You’ve seen the collection in pictures, but now with the release of The Beginning Series video, capturing the ‘nomad’ essence of this freshmen clothing brand, we get to see this collection come to life in all it’s motion glory. Have a look.

JGFZBTS “Lovin”

Jaggfuzzbeats released a new track “Lovin” just over the weekend. You might wanna give it a listen to light up your Monday blues at the office. This Shah Alam rock duo has given us the chillin and groovy vibe since their release of “Wasted Night” two months back. You guys dont wanna miss this band, keep them on the watch! And on definite loop in your tune list!

Watch Hunny Madu Get Schooled in the Ways of a Barber

For those of you who have picked up a copy of our MASSESzine issue 4, you would already know what went down between our editor and our main feature for the issue, Hunny Madu. But for the sake of those who did not manage to pick up a copy, here is a video of Hunny Madu getting some barber lessons from the good barbers at Ananda Barbershop in TTDI and applying what she learn on our editor.

Nike Cortez Premium QS

Originally released back in 1972, the Nike Cortez was introduced to the world and it changed the world of running. And after 43 years later, Nike is reintroducing the iconic pair again. Returning this time in some of it’s original colorways, the pair features a premium leather upper, vintage foam tongue, and the signature herringbone pattern outsole. The pair comes in black and white, and is already available at most Nike stores and retailers. 

Nike Free Flyknit Chukka (February 2015)

The latest colorways to hit the Nike Free Flyknit Chukka silhouette are some pretty interesting and enticing combinations of bright or multi-colored combination. Seen here in the February offerings is the bright Volt colorway, and a Dark Obsidian / Blue Lagoon combination. Instead of the usual Lunarlon outsole, the Flyknit upper sits atop a Nike Free outsole which offers more flexibility. Both pairs are now available at most Nike stores and retailers. 

Crossing Borders by Pestle & Mortar Clothing

Spring ’15 is well on its way and Pestle and Mortar Clothing has got something new and exciting coming that is set to break down the barriers of locality. The new collection, aptly named “Crossing Borders” sees P&M drawing inspirations from across the waters, showcasing their showstopping force for limitless growth. This collection pretty much features everything for everyone out there. From new designs of their signature raglan tops to shirts and t-shirts coming in shades fit for this spring. And let’s not leave out the ladies as well, with variations of dresses, tops and bottoms. We gotta wait a couple of days for the new collection to drop this Sunday at their Bangsar Flagship, but take an exclusive look at Crossing Borders / Spring ’15.